The rise of AI-driven cosmetics retail

The world of cosmetics retail is changing at an unprecedented pace. From the rise of AI-driven shopping experiences to the growing consumer demand for sustainability, brands must now navigate a dynamic and increasingly competitive landscape. Few professionals understand this better than Felicity Gain, business development manager for Smile Science Harley Street. With a career that spans buying roles at Harrods, Sainsbury’s, and Superdrug, Gain has worked on both sides of the buyer-supplier relationship, giving her a rare perspective on how beauty brands succeed—or fail—in the marketplace.

From the Shop Floor to the Buying Office

Gain’s retail journey began at one of the world’s most prestigious department stores: Harrods. “I actually started out on the shop floor and my whole vision was to become a buyer,” she recalls. “It looks so exciting, so glamorous—you get paid to go shopping. It’s not quite like that.”

Through determination and a deep understanding of customer behaviour, Gain transitioned into the buying office. This early experience laid the foundation for her approach to retail. “I think that’s the biggest thing of being a buyer—you need to know the customers, because that’s ultimately who you’re selling to.”

Harrods provided an invaluable learning experience, but Gain wanted to push herself further. Moving to Sainsbury’s, she was introduced to the complexities of mass-market retail. “At Harrods, you literally do all the volumes, all the forecasting yourself,” she explains. “But at Sainsbury’s, you’re part of a massive team, and you all have to work together.” She embraced the challenge of scaling her expertise across thousands of stores, learning to balance price points from as little as £1 to £25.

Superdrug was a natural next step, where Gain fully immersed herself in the beauty sector. “I prefer beauty anyway,” she admits. “But at the end of the day, when it comes to the product, it just becomes product because you have to make money. It’s all about making the money on the back of it.”

The Buyer Becomes the Seller

After years of working on the retail side, Gain decided to switch gears, taking on the challenge of bringing a brand to market. She joined Smile Science Harley Street, a company originally focused on teeth whitening treatments, and spearheaded its expansion into retail. “They thought, we need somebody in who actually knows the retail arm, because all they’d ever done before was just treatments,” she says.

Bringing Smile Science into major retailers such as Sainsbury’s, Superdrug, and Costco required not only her insider knowledge of how buyers think but also a willingness to learn new skills. “I wanted to stretch myself. I thought, I’ve been in very large businesses—let me go somewhere smaller and maybe I can use my skills to help a small business.”

Gain quickly discovered that her experience as a buyer gave her a crucial advantage. “When you’re taking products from Harley Street and trying to get into Sainsbury’s, you need to know what the buyer wants. How would a deck look? What do they want to hear? They want me to speak their language.”

The Challenge of Breaking Into Retail

For a new brand, getting stocked in major retailers isn’t easy. Gain had to address buyer concerns head-on, from regulatory issues to consumer education. “The biggest thing would be: I have some teeth whitening in my range already—what should I take out to put you in and why?” she explains.

Her answer lay in provenance. Smile Science Harley Street differentiates itself by offering premium formulations developed by leading dental scientists. “Customers care more and more about the brand. Who is the brand? Does it work? What are the price points?” Gain ensured that Smile Science positioned itself correctly within the market. “We always go to retailers where we know it fits into their pricing architecture. We’re never going to go to a Harrods and say, sell this for £24.99. It’s going to seem very cheap. We’ll never go to Poundland—it’s not a pound.”

The Growing Role of AI and Online Retail

As consumer habits shift, technology is playing an increasingly important role in beauty retail. “AI is making a massive difference,” Gain observes. Smile Science Harley Street is developing a teeth-whitening app that allows users to see how their smile could look after treatment. “You do it live—so you’re thinking, okay, this is how I could look. And I think then they’ll potentially buy it more online.”

The shift to digital shopping, accelerated by Covid-19, has also changed the way beauty products are sold. “For beauty, one of the hardest things to do is to sell online,” Gain acknowledges. “But I think people are actually more willing to do it now because of Covid. You weren’t able to try that lipstick on, and you still can’t now in stores. So AI tools that show you how a product will look on you are becoming crucial.”

The Impact of the Cost-of-Living Crisis

Despite economic pressures, demand for beauty and cosmetic treatments remains strong. “People are transitioning down from the dentist,” Gain explains. “They’re still going to want white teeth, but instead of paying £300 for a dentist treatment, they’re going to try a home whitening kit.”

Smile Science has positioned itself as an affordable luxury. “We’re already at the right price point for customers who want their money to go further. Our kits retail at £24.99, whereas some competitors are selling at £49.99.”

The Sustainability Imperative

Sustainability is now a key concern for both retailers and consumers. “Customers are demanding that,” Gain says. “You see that with more and more refills, less packaging.” Smile Science has responded by minimizing unnecessary plastic. “We are literally just a box with your components inside—no plastic inlays, no cellophane wrapping.”

Looking ahead, the company is also moving toward local manufacturing. “We’re actually going to start making our own products in the UK, which is amazing. That means a huge impact on carbon footprint from freight alone.”

Advice for the Next Generation

For those looking to follow in her footsteps, Gain’s advice is simple: “Network a lot. Know the industry. If you want to be a buyer, start on the shop floor—know the customers. If you can, offer to intern or volunteer your time. That’s going to be very beneficial.”

Reflecting on her career, Gain emphasises the importance of authenticity. “Be yourself. If you want to do anything in life, people have to actually like you, get on with you. By being yourself, it doesn’t stress you out so much either, trying to be this other person that you’re not.”

From Harrods to Harley Street, from buying to selling, Gain’s career is a testament to adaptability, strategic thinking, and a keen understanding of both consumers and the market. As technology and sustainability continue to reshape the beauty industry, her insights offer a compelling look at what’s next in the world of cosmetics retail.